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	<title>ZorkiKat ЗоркиКат Фотографий &#187; lens modification and adjustment</title>
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		<title>Do-It-Yourself LENS CAPS!</title>
		<link>http://www.zorkikat.com/do-it-yourself-lens-caps/373/</link>
		<comments>http://www.zorkikat.com/do-it-yourself-lens-caps/373/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 22 Mar 2011 15:04:14 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[accessories]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Camera care]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Camera Repair & Restoration]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Kiev/contax]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lens modification and adjustment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Uncategorized]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.zorkikat.com/do-it-yourself-lens-caps/373/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Sariling Sikap na Lens Kap.  (hango sa jay.fedka.com) Walang makitang kasukat sa Tindahan?  Walang pambili ng nakitang kasukat sa Tindahan? O gusto lang maiba? Gumawa ng Lens Cap!  Simple lang gawin.  Papel, Cardboard, Glue, Pintura, at Leatherette lang ang kailangan.  Saka kaunting kakayahan&#8230; No. 1: Ipatong ang harapan ng lens na gagawan ng cap sa [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>Sariling Sikap na Lens Kap</strong>.  (hango sa jay.fedka.com)</p>
<p>Walang makitang kasukat sa Tindahan?  Walang pambili ng nakitang kasukat sa Tindahan? O gusto lang maiba?</p>
<p>Gumawa ng Lens Cap!  Simple lang gawin.  Papel, Cardboard, Glue, Pintura, at Leatherette lang ang kailangan.  Saka kaunting kakayahan&#8230;<br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel11.jpg" alt="" /><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>No. 1:</strong> Ipatong ang harapan ng lens na gagawan ng cap sa cardboard at i-trace.  Gupitin. Ito ang magiging harapan ng lens cap:<br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel21.jpg" alt="" /><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>No. 2:</strong> Magtabas ng strip na mga 1cm ang lapad mula sa cardboard.  Gawing dalawa at doblehin para mas matigas at malakas. Ipulopot sa rim ng lens para makuha ang sukat nito.  Gupitin ang sobra. Pagdikitin ang mga dulo. Ito ang magiging gilid ng cap. Luwagan ng kaunti.  Kailangan kasing may kaunting puwang para magkasya ang ilalagay na balot na papel.  At umuurong nang kaunti ang cardboard na nabasa at natuyuan ng glue.<br />
<img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel31.jpg" alt="" /><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt">Ang dalawang bahagi bago pag-isahin:  ang rim at ang takip:<br />
<img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel41.jpg" alt="" /><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>No. 3:</strong> Idikit ang takip sa rim.  Lagyan ang gilid ng rim ng patak-patak na sunod-sunod ng glue.  Huwag maging masyadong masaya sa pag-gamit ng glue- untian lang.  Hindi maganda ang labis:<br />
<img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel51.jpg" alt="" /><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>No. 4:</strong> Bayaang matuyo ang pandikit.  Magandang ilagay sa lens ang cap habang natutuyo ang glue. Sisilbi itong hulmahan.  Iwasan lamang na huwag madikitan o malagyan ng glue ang lens.<br />
<img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel61.jpg" alt="" /><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>No. 5:</strong> Takpan ang nabuong lens cap ng gummed paper tape.  O kahit papel na pambalot ng pandesal na nilagyan ng paste.  Gawin parang <em>papier-maché</em>.  Para lalong tumigas ang materyal:<br />
<img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel71.jpg" alt="" /><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>No. 6</strong> Sa pag-tuyo, pintahan ng itim ang cap.  Enamel ang pinakamatibay gamitin.  Magiging water-resistant ang cap.  Kung ayaw mong itim, puede rin pink, purple, yellow, mint green, atbp&#8230;.. ibigay ang hilig!  Maaari rin lagyan ng leatherette ang harapan ng lens cap.  Idikit lang ang pirasong ginupit:<br />
<img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel81.jpg" alt="" /><br />
</span></p>
<p style="text-align: center"><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><strong>No. 7:</strong> Ganito ang kalalabasan:<br />
<img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel91.jpg" alt="" /><br />
Lagyan ng logo ang hubad na harapan, o takpan ng balat (fur, kaliskis ng isda o bayawak, balahibo ng manok, etc, puede rin).<br />
</span></p>
<p><span style="font-family:Times New Roman; font-size:12pt"><br />
<em>Wala pang Php10 ang gastos sa project na ito.</em> Mga recycled materials, puedeng gamitin.</p>
<p>Gumawa nang marami.  Para kung may mahulog o mawala, hindi mag-ngangawa!  <img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel101.gif" alt="" /> <img src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/03/032211_1459_DoItYoursel111.gif" alt="" /></span></p>
<h4  class="related_post_title">Related Posts:</h4><ul class="related_post"><li>No Related Post</li></ul>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Industar-69 28mm</title>
		<link>http://www.zorkikat.com/industar-69-28mm/265/</link>
		<comments>http://www.zorkikat.com/industar-69-28mm/265/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 29 Oct 2009 15:24:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>admin</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[accessories]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lens modification and adjustment]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rangefinder and Focus Adjustments]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Russian and Ukrainian Cameras]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Using Leicas and Leica Clones]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[epson r-d1s]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[industar-69]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.zorkikat.com/industar-69-28mm/265/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[This lens was made for the half-frame Belarussian &#8220;Chaika&#8221; (&#8220;Чайка&#8221; = &#8220;Seagull&#8221;) half-frame cameras.  The 2nd and 3rd models of the Chaika were designed to have removable lenses.  No one is sure why this was done -the first Chaika model had a fixed, non-detachable lens-, but I think it was to allow the lens to [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>This lens was made for the half-frame Belarussian &#8220;Chaika&#8221; (&#8220;Чайка&#8221; = &#8220;Seagull&#8221;) half-frame cameras.  The 2nd and 3rd models of the Chaika were designed to have removable lenses.  No one is sure why this was done -the first Chaika model had a fixed, non-detachable lens-, but I think it was to allow the lens to be used in an Enlarger for printing.</p>
<p>The lens has the standard Leica M39 thread (LTM39) mount,  but the working distance (the focal plane to lens mount flange distance the lens is positioned which allows infinity focus) is not the the same.  Leica&#8217;s is 28,8mm.  Chaika used something like 29 or so mm.  This extra millimetre or so prevents infinity focusing when the I-69 28mm lens is mounted on the Leica.</p>
<div><em><br />
</em></div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img style="max-width: 800px;" src="http://lh3.ggpht.com/_fuve4vGA1A4/SumlO7ZSifI/AAAAAAAAARc/fGYv98H0jUw/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="" /></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>the &#8220;Индустар-69&#8243; 2,8/28mm mounted on a Leica IIIc</em></p>
<p>As the reader will note later, infinity focus is not the only, nor is it the greatest concern here.  Coverage, or the ability to focus an image large enough to fill the frame.  &#8220;Frame&#8221; here is relative- the standard 24 X 36mm, &#8216;half-frame&#8217;(a.k.a. &#8220;single frame&#8221;) 18 X 24mm, and the 23.7 x 15.6 mm APS-C size  			CCD of the Epson whose 1,5X factor makes it &#8216;see&#8217; like a 42mm on standard 35.</p>
<p>The lens was modified by altering its focus movement.  Portions of the inner barrel were filed away to make the lens move further in to allow infinity focus.  The focusing scale on the barrel was also reset to synchronise it with the lens&#8217; focus.  The aperture mark no longer coincided at the new positions, so a new mark was made by putting a drop of red paint on the aperture adjusting ring.</p>
<p>The lens too, being originally meant for a non-RF coupled camera, will focus only by scale since it has no means of engaging with the RF cams of the camera.  Scale focusing with a 28mm isn&#8217;t that hard- its greater DOF more than compensates for focusing errors.  Plus, the I-69 has three &#8220;snapshot&#8221; focus settings on its barrel: &#8220;Portrait&#8221;, &#8220;Group&#8221;, and Landscape&#8221;.  How is this used?  Look through the finder and set the focus against the figure which resembles closest what was seen through the finder:</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img style="max-width: 800px;" src="http://lh5.ggpht.com/_fuve4vGA1A4/SumulQSu5wI/AAAAAAAAARg/gsjSWO-URtU/%5BUNSET%5D.jpg?imgmax=800" alt="" /></p>
<div style="text-align: center;"><em>Just line up the figure against the pink triangle which corresponds to &#8220;how much&#8221; is seen in the viewfinder.</em></p>
<div style="text-align: left;">Focusing is often a trivial matter.  In many instances, leaving the scale at the &#8220;group shot&#8221; mark (the 3 metre mark) and using f/8 will deliver DOF with a range of 1,6 metres to infinity.</p>
<p>Since the I-69 was designed to cover the 18X24 frame, the IMAGE CIRCLE it produces will be much smaller- smaller than what &#8216;full frame&#8217; needs, but sufficient for the smaller &#8216;half-frame&#8217;.</p>
<p>On an APS frame, the corners already vignette.  Aside from losing coverage, the edges of the image circle also dims.  Here is what it does with the Epson R-D1s digital rangefinder camera:</p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><img class="aligncenter" style="max-width: 800px;" src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/EPS4881.jpg" alt="" /></p>
<div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Scale-focused/distance &#8216;guess-timated&#8217; at 0,9 metre.  Full 2,8 aperture.<br />
The I-69 is a Tessar type lens, and produces a swirly blur when used at full aperture, for closeups.<br />
The corners of the picture show significant vignetting.</em></p>
<div>If the smaller APS-C frame already shows vignetting, a full 35mm frame shows TOTAL DARKENING at the corners of the frame.  This, as well as the significant loss of definition at the threshold areas indicate that its image circle is too small for the 35mm format, but more than sufficient for the half-frame picture.</div>
<div style="text-align: center;">
<p style="text-align: center;"><img style="max-width: 800px;" src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/2009-10-29_54.jpg" alt="" /></p>
</div>
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<div>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em>Same subject as above, but on a 24X36mm Leica frame.<br />
The blue tinge stems from the unfiltered exposure of tungsten movie film in daylight.</em></p>
<p><em><br />
</em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em><img class="aligncenter" style="max-width: 800px;" src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/2009-10-29_28.jpg" alt="" /></em></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><em><img class="aligncenter" style="max-width: 800px;" src="http://www.zorkikat.com/wp-content/uploads/2009/10/2009-10-29_36.jpg" alt="" /></em></p>
<p><em> </em></p>
<div><strong>Conclusions:</strong> The significant vignetting prevents further use of the lens for &#8216;serious&#8217; work on full frame 35.  However, it can be useful for experimental or whimsical applications.</p>
<p>On the Epson R-D1s, it can be used as a scale-focus snapshot lens, with a 42mm view.  Using it at f/8, the vignetting is not to apparent in many situations.</p>
<p>The lens would be a perfect &#8220;normal&#8221; focal length for the micro 4/3s cameras.  No modification is even necessary to adjust the focus.<br />
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