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Entering from the Bottom: Loading a Leica Properly. (also for FED, Zorki, and Canon RF cameras)
10 Jul2009
Leica, and earlier models of Canon, FED, and Zorki, as well as the other Barnack (after the inventor of the Leica, Oskar Barnack) style cameras load from the bottom. There is only one correct way to load these cameras: the RIGHT WAY. Any other method which involves extra “tools” like cards or removing anything else from the camera other than the baseplate cover and the takeup spool is clumsy at best, and harmful to the camera at worst.
Loading film from the bottom would look difficult. That’s true, but it is a skill which can be easily learned. It isn’t even as “inconvenient” as the process would suggest. Some people have gone as far as describing the process to be impossible. False. Not because they can’t means no one can. Fussy and slow at the start, but can become quite easy and quick at the end. It’s possible to do the whole bottom loading thing in under 15 seconds!.
It starts with cutting the film: Most factory loads now have a short film leader tongue.
Leica bottom loaders need a leader cut which is 10-11 cms long (that would be about 21 perforations). Shown above is the Leitz “ABLON” template trimmer
A template can be used, but freehand cutting with a pair of scissors is possible. The cut shape need not be exact, but it has to be clean, and no break in the perforation must be done.
STEP 1. Insert the tip of the film leader into the spring-clip of the take up spool. The spool in these cameras must be pulled out for loading:
there will also be a hooked catch. The first perforation should hook on this catch.
Draw out enough film so that the cassette and the spool will span the length of the camera. From the cassette side, one perforation should protrude through the felt lip trap, on the cut shoulder side:
STEP 2. Insert both cassette and takeup spool into the camera, at the same time. The distance between cassette and spool must span the distance between their respective chambers. The slope of the trimmed leader must show one perforation from the felt lips of the film cassette. If the film cassette does not go in easily, try turning the rewind knob.
Push the film cassette and the takeup spool into the camera at the same time. They should fit snugly and engage properly:
Before closing, see first that the film sprockets engage with the sprocket shaft teeth:
Replace the baseplate cover, and lock properly. “Open” and “Shut” or “Auf” or “Zu” (German) or “Откр” or “Закр”(Russian) respectively:
STEP 3. Turn the Advance Knob to cock the shutter and fire. Do this twice.
Set the counter disc (using the embossed nipples) to “0″. With cameras whose counters turn fully during winding, the counter disc must be turned in the winding direction -as indicated by the arrow on the winding knob- to prevent damage to the winding brake-spring. This would include all pre-IIIc Leica, all FED-1 and Zorki-1, Zenit-1, and bottom loading Canon.
Note: Leica IIIc and later models have disc counters which turn 1/40th of a circle each time the winding knob is turned. This type of counter is SET BY TURNING THE DISC COUNTERCLOCKWISE, to Zero Position.
STEP 4. Continue the wind and advance sequence until the end of the roll is reached. At this point, the winding knob will no longer turn and a resistance is felt. Set the rewind switch to “R” (“B” on Zorki and FED) position to disengage the winding gear.
Pull up the rewind knob and turn in the direction indicated by the arrow engraved on it. Continue winding until the end of the film is reached. A slight resistance will be felt when the film leader is reached. It is still attached (hooked in Soviet cameras) to the takeup. A slightly more forceful turn will pull the leader off. Continue winding until all the film is reeled into the cassette.
NOTE: THE LONG LEADER CUT IS REQUIRED ONLY FOR BOTTOM LOADING CAMERAS. THE CUT IS NOT NECESSARY FOR RUSSIAN OR UKRAINIAN LEICA COPIES WHOSE BACKS OPEN. Zorki-3, 3M, 3S, 4, 4K, and 6; as well as FED-2, 3, 4, and 5 will load normally using short-leader films.
13 Responses to Entering from the Bottom: Loading a Leica Properly. (also for FED, Zorki, and Canon RF cameras)
Macka
July 10th, 2009 at 21:23
Sir, how about other cuts aside from the Ablon and Scissor? Well, I have tried the “coin cut”.
When Ablons and scissors are a nowhere, try “coin cut” the film leader.
jef
July 15th, 2009 at 02:41
how about the tongue cut? i think you’ve tried this one before. “_
Alsharif Ali
May 23rd, 2010 at 20:44
Dear Sir
I am the owner of several Leica models, two of which are screw Leicas Leica 3 and Leica 3Fand was always confused while loading films in the scew mount Leicas. while the base plate indicates only four inches of length of the film protruding from the cassette and warns us not to draw any further leaving no space after the trimmed area between the film and the cassette, you are showing one perforation protruding from the film cassette. therefore
kindly clarify if possible wether to leave one perforation from the film cassette or to go with trimming exactly till the film cassette without leaving any perforation out from the beginning of the film?
Thank you vm in advance and best regards
Alsharif
admin
May 23rd, 2010 at 20:53
@Alsharif: one or two perforations coming out of the cassette is not critical. As long as these are not torn and the slope from the shoulder is properly tapered, you should have no trouble inserting the film into the camera. The length of the leader can be anywhere from 10 to 11 cms (4 inches +).
Red Robin
October 21st, 2010 at 05:22
Thank you so much. Appears to be a simple process. I would like to get one of the templates. The used market must be the only place? Anyway thanks, Red
Phil Hickman
January 21st, 2011 at 03:16
Just acquired a FED 1g, my first bottom loader. A couple of months ago also got a Ricoh singlex SLR with film in it from yester-year. AGFA CT 18 36 pat 135. It has a long slopping leader of 22 sprocket holes. 22mm wide for 7 sprocket holes then slopping up to just under the opposite side of sprocket holes & around them. Total length of 105mm. I’m thinking of using this as a plan for my bottom loader & see how it goes. No Idear how old the film is, but it looks late 50′s old.
Have you ever seen his type of film leader before?
Phil Hickman
January 24th, 2011 at 01:56
Thanks for the imfo Jay, have uploaded a image to Flickr if you would like to see
http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5244/5378014503_31d8eb27ea_b.jpg
davide
March 18th, 2011 at 00:18
This is the best way to load film in a Zorki 5 or similar camera. The others method (for example using a card) tend to damage the camera. Great document!
les chenery
April 4th, 2011 at 04:42
i recently bought a zorki 1c as there a no manual i found your instuctions most helpfulli would i foun things very dificult with out your help
LES CHENERY
April 4th, 2011 at 04:49
bought a zorki 1c this week your instructions were most helpfull i would have had trouble without your help
An Interesting Article: How Changing Film Cost One Photographer a Chance at an Iconic Vietnam War Photo « Jeremy's (almost) Daily Musings
June 20th, 2012 at 11:39
[...] the napalm, Burnett had finished his roll of film, and was struggling to load the next one with a notoriously fiddly Leica. Stuck without being ready when the perfect moment came, Burnett was a few seconds late, and [...]
admin
June 20th, 2012 at 23:49
He would have been using a Leica M, which was also a bottom loader, but allowed the back to open partly. Just about any camera used by a ‘pro’ during the Vietnam war era would be ‘fiddly’- the ubiquitous Nikon F, for instance, whose back slid off for loading was not significantly better or faster in terms of film loading than a Leica M.
How Changing Film Cost One Photographer a Chance at an Iconic Vietnam War Photo · NEWS on the Dreamspace
June 25th, 2012 at 16:22
[...] the napalm, Burnett had finished his roll of film, and was struggling to load the next one with a notoriously fiddly Leica. Stuck without being ready when the perfect moment came, Burnett was a few seconds late, and [...]